…and then on to Mauritius

After my stay in Madagascar, I moved on to its neighboring island of Mauritius. One of my favorite things to do when traveling is to visit a grocery store. It’s really interesting to see what is locally-stocked, whether it’s a different region in the US or a foreign country. I always try the local cuisine, but I also like to shop and cook a meal or two. Last year in Bali, I bought a variety of fresh produce, spices, and freshly-made tempeh (fermented soybean cakes) at a local market in Ubud and took it with me to the coast where I cooked up a typical Balinese meal. It worked out well because the beach areas are much more resorty-type areas, so the restaurant options were limited and pricey.

In addition to trying out new foods, shopping and cooking is a nice break from eating out. I tend to travel for extended periods of time and get a bit tired of eating in restaurants and whatever portable food I have stashed in my backpack. Another plus is that it’s easier to satisfy my food preferences. I love to cook, so I get to try things that might not be on a menu (especially in countries catering specifically to Western tourists). Even when Michael and I travel in the US, we often stay at places with at least partial kitchens where we can eat at a meal or two after stopping at the local markets. For some, cooking during a vacation might not seem like a vacation, but in my opinion it’s worth the trade-off.

A unique fruit (or vegetable?) that’s a cross between a pepper and an apple

On my recent trip to Mauritius, the two places I stayed both had fully-stocked kitchens. It was a nice option after eating out for 2 1/2 weeks in Madagascar. I got to try two different varieties of vegan faux-meats (Schnitzel patties and sausages). Since fish is so important to island countries, I also found a wide variety of analog seafood and tried the vegan lobster. I chose this because I noticed from the first to the second time I was in the supermarket that the stock had reasonably dwindled, which I took to mean it tasted pretty good, and it actually did.

It’s been ages since I’ve eaten lobster, so I can’t guarantee it’s a good imitation, but it was certainly an enjoyable vegan substitute.

I was wishing I had some vegan mayo to make a lobster salad, but alas, that was not something I found. I tried girumon squash that I’d never had before, which was much creamier than firm after baking. I also got to try some veggie dumplings that were quite tasty (and which were a carbohydrate indulgence, but I realized I’d gone two days without a real meal).

My dumpling indulgence

Something I’ve found to be both interesting and consistent when shopping for produce in developing countries is the size of the vegetables and particularly the fruit. Much of the produce marketed in the US and Western Europe comes from larger, agribusiness production that has worked to maximize the yield per acre. Developing countries don’t have the same level of access to technology and inputs, so that produce tends to look closer to something that comes out of a garden. I’m always taken aback when I walk into not just a local weekly produce market, but even a supermarket in a place like Madagascar or Mauritius and see shelves and displays of what I’d consider single-serving size fruit like apples and oranges versus what seem to be verging-on-softball size equivalents at home.

Weekly market with ‘normal’ produce

Of course one of the best parts of traveling to tropical areas is the fresh fruit. Rather than being picked green to ship, await quarantine clearance, then be transported and stocked in the grocery store, eating tree-ripened papaya, guava, or passion fruit is a very different experience in the tropics .

Passion fruit

And I’ve had the opportunity every time I’ve traveled to Africa or Asia to try something unique to these places that, due to lack of international demand/recognition and/or is highly perishable, I wouldn’t have the chance to try otherwise. Most recently, I got to try sweet apple (it’s nothing like an apple, actually), fresh Mauritian olives, and something I didn’t even get an English or French name for, since my hosts only knew the Creole name. It was a cross between a sweet pepper and a tart apple.

Sweet apple

I also got to have a typical lunch. After a trip to the local weekly market for produce with a former student, I was kindly received into his home for lunch with his family.

My gracious host and me enjoying fresh coconut milk

Dhal puri is a yellow-lentil pancake filled with a variety of beans, sauces, chilis, and pickles, and folded sort of like a burrito. Even though each filling has a fairly intense flavor, they come together into a very satisfying combination.

Dhal puri

My favorite thing I tried was achard fruit de cythère pickle. It’s not of the fermented sort like sauerkraut or, well, what we call pickles, but rather Indian-style with fruit and/or vegetables mixed in a ground spice paste. I saw it in the produce section of the store and it resembled tapenade. I thought I’d like it, but I wanted to know what it was, so I asked a fellow local shopper who explained it was ‘little mangos’ in a spicy mix that would be used as a condiment, but not mixed into a dish. At my last grocery stop, I found it jarred and bought some to bring home, but I was sadly (but not too surprisingly) disappointed that it didn’t taste as good. Since I’ve never seen fruit de cythere in any store (even the amazing international food emporium of Jungle Jim’s), I’ll have to settle for the jarred variety since I can’t make it myself.

My very satisfying meal, including the amazing achard on the tiny plate

Even though I generally stick to my usual dietary choices when I travel, I don’t want to miss the opportunity to try something new, even if it means more calories or carbohydrates than usual, though there are two compromises I don’t make. I only eat vegan food and I only buy ethically-sourced chocolate (or else I suffer and go without it if I exhausted my emergency travel supply. After one time where I experienced a stretch without it, I got much better on subsequent trips of learning to ration). Even with these self-imposed restrictions, I don’t feel like I’ve missed the opportunity to experience local cuisines and a variety of unique food products.

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A Vegan Travels to Madagascar

The scenery in Madagascar was one of the key reasons I chose this destination.

One question I am regularly asked when traveling abroad is ‘How do you manage to maintain a vegan diet?’ In some countries, like Ghana, I ate well every day. In some regions of the world, like SE Asia, or Latin America, it’s been very easy. In other places,, like East Asia, it’s a bit harder because I don’t care for seaweed and so many dishes seem to include fish or fish-based sauces. Madagascar has turned out to be one of the more challenging places to eat, especially since I also opt for a low-carbohydrate vegan regimen.

Madagascar was colonized by the French, who left an indelible mark on country. The European cultural influence is apparent beyond French as the official language, vehicles with the steering wheel on the left (i.e., proper) side, and the colonial infrastructure, which is in disrepair.

A scenic array of mountains, rice paddies, and vineyards in central Madagascar.

The French-style baguette bread is served at every meal. Capers are commonly served with fish. Wine is a readily available beverage, imported from the more developed economies of South Africa and Chile. The French attempted to establish vineyards in a central provincial area in Madagascar where the climate resembles that of the French wine-making country. We saw the vineyards, but the last winery recently burnt down, so we weren’t able to visit and sample it (though our guide said Westerners often grimaced in response to the very vinegary taste). The French Iove of miel- honey- is also apparent in the rural areas that harvest the honey from the bees that eat the nectar of the Australian-imported eucalyptus trees. People also make a variety of jams from local fruits.

As a vegan traveling in Madagascar, I have opted out of the traditional boiled chicken served with white rice and a broth of rice water, a variety of zebu (tropical bovine) dishes, and duck, which is abundant. In rice paddies, ducks are used to keep insects from eating the rice seeds. Due to the increase in flow of tourists to Madagascar, restaurants consistently offer at least one vegetarian option on the menu, if not more.

Hiking in the canyon of Isalo National Park

As a vegan, it’s more limiting, as many of these dishes include cheese. As a low-carbohydrate vegan, I’m even more limited. For meals, I stick with vegetables, all of which are locally grown, out of necessity as opposed to some local farm support movement. Much of the population is reliant on agriculture, so produce is readily available. Neither the transportation system nor the economy is well-developed, so the farther the producer is from one of the few cities, highly perishable produce will not make it from the rural areas. Plus, very little processing happens in the country, with most canned and packaged goods imported, so produce isn’t grown for large-scale production. Instead, people from the villages sell their produce from roadside stands and take their produce to the weekly market in the nearest trading town to earn money to buy the stuff they don’t grow or make.

The usual vegetable combination I received, though this one was in a Malagasy curry sauce.

The vegetables on my plate were consistently green beans, zucchini, and carrots. On one occasion, I also got broccoli, while on another, I got some cauliflower. One place served most excellent eggplant served with herbs they grew in the kitchen garden. Most often, the vegetables were sautéed in oil with garlic, and a few times with ginger. In one place I got vegetables in a Madagascar curry spice blend, which were quite good. Though beans are commonly eaten by the local population, they are less commonly available at restaurants, which seems odd to me (and our guide, as well). They always prepare them from the dried beans, so at one place I was able to get them the second night of our stay (we almost exclusively ate at restaurants attached to the hotels or camps) after asking for them on the first night.

Out of necessity I ate more grains (most often in the form of white bread) and potatoes than I would at home; otherwise I wouldn’t have been eating a whole lot. It was strange to eat bread at least once or twice a day, whereas at home, if I eat bread, it’s the high-protein bread that I make. I definitely noticed that going back to a more carbohydrate-centric regimen that I was hungrier sooner.

An ex-pat owns the hotel where we stayed in the capital city, which has an amazing Italian restaurant, serving up this bread basket.

I do, however, tend to eat less when I travel. I don’t think it’s because I have fewer grazing options, especially on this trip because we spent so many hours riding in a vehicle. While the scenery is quite captivating, many hours of riding in the vehicle can get a bit monotonous, which could have led to munching, but didn’t (maybe this is progress for me?). I took this time (while we were covering more than 1300 miles) to write my posts when the roads were ‘soft’ (as our guide referred to the paved, less windy and potholed roads).

I first found these Mrs. H.S. Ball’s Chutney potato chips a few years ago when I visited South Africa. I was happy to find them again because of their unique sort of barbecue-Worcestershire sauce flavor.

My main source of calories was from peanut butter and peanuts. At some meals I’d have peanut butter (which I bought at a supermarket and is imported from South Africa) on bread to supplement the plate of vegetables I’d get.

A peanut butter sandwich lunch break during one of our ‘picnic’ lunch stops.

Other times, I’d just have peanuts, which are widely grown throughout the country, to round out the vegetable plate. As a special treat, in the capital, I was able to get some locally-produced cashews, which were quite a nice change.

The best of the chili pastes: Green chili with ginger

My favorite culinary experience was trying the chili sauces that differed from place to place. While they were not always available, they were a really nice flavor addition. The first sauce I had was a basic chopped fresh chili relish. Another time it was a mortar and pestle-ground red chili paste that I was able to stir into my couscous with black beans and vegetables. The most interesting flavor composition was a much lighter colored, thinner paste that was green chili ground with ginger. The one thing they did have in common, though, was the heat. Just a tiny spoonful packed a lot of chili power, which for me, was delightful.

A tiny chili paste pot and spoon

As a poorer country, Madagascar manufactures very few processed foods. As with the peanut butter, many packaged goods, like the Simba potato chips I found, are imported from neighboring, relatively wealthier South Africa. Similarly, the Nice coconut cookies I bought to satisfy my occasional desire for a bit of vegan dessert are imported from India. While there are still many people living in poverty in India, its economy is much more diversified, with a much better distribution of wealth that supports a growing middle class. Most Madagascans, on the other hand, remain subsistence farmers, growing rice in very scenic rice paddies, sugar cane, corn, legumes, and fresh produce. One region also produced cotton, introduced by French colonists.

While the French did influence Madagascan culture, they didn’t manage to export their gourmet dishes that drive foodies to France. Even though Madagascar is not a place to go for a culinary experience, it is an excellent destination for its unique, scenic, and diverse topography, flora, and fauna, and its very friendly people. So if someone who opts for a low-carbohydrate vegan regimen has no problem getting daily nourishment, most people who don’t visit with any grand foodie expectations should have a most rewarding experience.

One of more than a dozen different varieties of lemurs I saw in Madagascar.

A Healthy Carrot Cake? Not Impossible!

I remember a carrot cake recipe my mom had from the 1970s. It called for baby food carrots and a cup of oil. One whole cup! Even though I opt for a low-carbohydrate regimen, even I can’t fathom putting that much oil in a recipe! It reminds me of another cake that was popular around that time, the Watergate Cake, so named for the hotel that created it, rather than the scandal. It called for what I think of as a bunch of 1970s ingredients, the era during which every recipe started with some processed ingredient, like canned soup, Velveeta cheese, or (maybe ‘and’ in this case?) crushed saltines. The Watergate Cake included pistachio pudding packets, a cake mix, and 7-Up, along with a cup of oil. I guess that was the standard in those days…

A much more healthful version of the classic cake…

Fast forward to the 2017 when  I found myself wanting something different for dessert. Some voice in my head said ‘carrot cake’ and stuck there until I figured out how to make one. As usual, what would result in thousands of hits for a ‘normal’ person, finding a single recipe from the gazillion bits of information that make up the Internet didn’t yield a match for my admittedly unique combination of dietary choices. So off the kitchen I went with to figure out something to suit my low-carbohydrate, minimally processed, vegan needs.

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Make Veggies your Go To Food

Despite the limits set by the weight-loss plan I adopted for my lifestyle change, I chose to eat as many non-starchy vegetables as I wanted, as long as I wasn’t adding extra salad dressing or fat. I gave myself license to indulge both at meals (I made as many green beans as I wanted) and if I was hungry between planned eating times. I felt this was a more realistic approach to the challenges that would confront me.

Roast fresh or frozen green beans in some oil and thinly-sliced garlic, seasoned with salt and pepper in a 420 degree oven for ~20 minutes for a simple, yet elegant side dish or great snack right out of the fridge.

Sometimes I would be really hungry and just need to eat. Sometimes I was battling with some emotion, but not aware enough of what was going on to stop myself from eating. Either way, I figured that if I really felt the urge to eat then I would be happy to eat naked vegetables. If you’re really hungry, sugar snap peas, raw carrots, and cauliflower are appealing and satisfying. If you are emotionally grazing, the guilt of indulging isn’t nearly as bad.

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The Twisted Shepherd’s Pie Recipe

shepherds-pie-2

I never had Shepherd’s Pie until I found it in a vegetarian cookbook I got in college, but I instantly fell in love with it. When I got The Peaceful Palate at the only vegetarian conference I’ve ever attended, it was a spiral-bound book, printed up in 1992. I was happy to see that, though it’s now out of print, it did get published in 1996 and some copies are still floating around .

The rule of thumb for making any recipe is to follow the instructions the first time then tweak it the next time. As I’ve mentioned in other recipe posts, I often start with one recipe and end up with something entirely different. Jennifer Raymond’s recipes are the stark exception. Everything I’ve made from her cookbook was really good, just as it was, maybe needing a hot boost, at most. So I was really bummed when I moved to a low-carbohydrate regimen and abandoned potatoes. I’ve made a few other changes to this recipe to help adapt, but it’s still a great combination.

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Pumpkin: It’s for More than Just Latte.

Pumpkin-Stuffed Seitan and Cranberries

Pumpkin-Stuffed Seitan and Cranberries

Last week finally started to feel a bit like autumn and I was delighted to find pie pumpkins in stock and on sale at 4 for $5 at the store. What a steal! Pie pumpkins are different than those big ones that end up on carved people’s porches because they’re sweeter and less fibrous. I always feel like fresh pumpkin this special treat because I can only get it in season, unlike in parts of the world where it’s a staple food. And rightly so: It’s an excellent source of beta carotene and other nutrients, it’s low-calorie, high-fiber, and it’s even got protein.

Unlike sweet potatoes or butternut squash, pumpkin has far fewer carbohydrates (25 less than sweet potatoes; 8 less than butternut squash) and sugars (11 less and 4 less, respectively) for the same serving sizes. Calorie for calorie, it’s a much better nutritional deal. And it’s sad, because pumpkin is excellent for so much more than just baked goods or pumpkin spice latte (which–though I don’t know firsthand–I’m pretty sure is all about the spices and not about pumpkin flavor).

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Waste Not, Want Not

I"m always looking for an excuse to include trip photos!

I”m always looking for an excuse to include trip photos!

It’s cliché, but it’s true. It’s a rare occasion when I find veggies or fruit rotting in the depths of the produce drawer. But when I do…the forgotten zucchini, the lonely lemon, the too bitter to salvage kale, the ravaged romaine…I feel like I’ve failed: the sad veggies, the planet, my pocketbook. My only redemption is that we compost, so the animals that graze in the heap get lucky(ish).

There are a few reasons why I’m good about using what I buy before it goes off. I hate grocery shopping, but I feel like I’ve entered the Garden of Eden when I walk into the produce section. Have I mentioned how much I love, love, love veggies?!?

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How Super are “Superfoods”? (with a Bonus Baby Kale Sauté Recipe)

Kale

I have wanted to post this recipe kale sauté that I make for some time. As I finally got around to it, it got me thinking about the origin of the term “superfood”, since kale is billed as such, so I did a bit of digging. What I found was that the term started to gain popularity in the 2000s, but from where? Wikipedia doesn’t pinpoint the origin of the word or how it came into popular use to describe the fad that elevates some foods to superstar status for their amazing properties. And there’s no academic research to be found on superfoods prior to the start of the 21st century, though since that time, there have been almost 2,500 publications about superfoods. Maybe it was turn of the century that made people think more about how to boost their health that started this revolution? At any rate, the term took us by force and is here to stay, along with a lot of misinformation about the foods bestowed with the title.

What are Superfoods?
Superfoods are nutrient-dense foods. They are typically associated with being rich in flavonoids like beta carotene and lycopene (which are phytonutrients containing antioxidants that fight cell deterioration), particular vitamins or minerals (like vitamin K, magnesium), and higher concentrations of healthy fats (like omega-3 fatty acids). The great thing about foods accorded with superfood status is that they are real foods, and almost all of them, including flax seed, pomegranates, avocados, quinoa, and kale, are plants.

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Detox Salad Recipe

One morning last spring I was in Whole Foods and happened to see a clam shell with shredded salad. What intrigued me most was that one of the ingredients was Brussels sprouts. If you’ve come across one of the very first recipes I posted, The Amazing Brussels Sprout, you know of my passion for these tiny cabbages. What piqued my interest was that it never occurred to me to eat raw Brussels before I discovered this ‘Detox Salad’, as the label read. What makes it a detoxifier? Beats me, but I bought it.

The time was running a bit late and I knew my spouse, Michael, was having leftovers for lunch, so I thought about what I could quickly throw into this salad mix to round it out as a lunch for me. I ended up liking it so much, and it was so different than the salads I usually eat, that I started making the Detox Salad mix at home. This makes the dogs very happy because they LOVE cabbage hearts, the ends and leaves, that fall off of the Brussels, and carrot ends and peels. (They don’t share my passion for raw beets, but they love them roasted!)

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Make it Last

Rarely a dinner goes by where we don’t eat salad, whether it’s before or as the entrée. The problem is that, though I’m very grateful all my food needs are met, I loathe grocery shopping. Michael is awesome and has helped to alleviate this issue. Once a week on our way home from school, we stop for groceries. I divide the list: I get the produce and hit the natural foods section, while he treks (literally, since it’s like logging a mile long, I swear) through the rest of the store for everything else.

The problem with trying to get by going to the store just once a week, when we depend so much on produce, is that it’s a lot harder to keep it fresh–especially if the ‘buy by’ date is close to when we shopped. The answer? Over the years, I’ve discovered a few tricks to making produce last longer. I already covered how to extend the life of fresh herbs. But sometimes keeping the moisture out is objective.

Keep the Moisture Out

Make Spring Mix Last

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